Hermès
Authentication Guide
Professional Authentication Essential
Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags are among the most counterfeited luxury items in the world. "Super fakes" can cost $1,000+ and are extremely difficult to detect. NEVER purchase an Hermès bag without professional authentication from a reputable service.
Critical Authentication Checks
Blind stamp must be heat-stamped, not printed
Authentic blind stamps are heat-pressed into the leather, creating a subtle indent. You should be able to feel the impression. Printed or painted stamps are fake.
Source: Privé Porter, Rebag
Sangles (straps) should have smooth, burnished edges
Hermès uses a proprietary edge painting technique called "fil-au-chinois." Edges should be smooth, slightly domed, and perfectly uniform with no brush marks.
Source: Madison Avenue Couture
Hardware should be heavy and substantial
Hermès uses solid brass hardware that is gold or palladium plated. It should feel heavy, with no visible seams or bubbling. The "Hermès-Paris" engraving should be perfectly crisp.
Source: Baghunter
"Hermès-Paris Made in France" stamping
The stamp should be perfectly centered, evenly spaced, with a specific font. The accent over the "e" in Hermès should be a proper accent grave (`), not acute (´).
Source: Multiple authentication services
Blind Stamp (Date Code) Guide
Hermès uses "blind stamps" - heat-pressed letters indicating the year of production. The format has changed over decades.
Starting with T (2015), letters appear without enclosing shapes. X = 2016, A = 2017, etc.
Example: T = 2015, Y = 2020, B = 2024
Recent Year Codes (2015-2024)
T
2015
X
2016
A
2017
C
2018
D
2019
Y
2020
Z
2021
U
2022
B
2023
W
2024
Craftsman Stamps
In addition to the date stamp, authentic Hermès bags have a separate craftsman stamp - typically 1-3 letters identifying the artisan who made the bag. These are NOT sequential and do not indicate date or authenticity on their own.
Source: Privé Porter, Madison Avenue Couture
Leather Types & Quality
Hermès uses various leathers, each with distinct characteristics. Knowing these helps identify misrepresented or fake bags.
Soft, supple calfskin with a fine, pebbled grain. Most common leather for Birkins and Kellys.
Authentic Characteristics:
Consistent grain, soft but substantial feel, slight sheen
Smell Test:
Rich, natural leather smell - never chemical or plastic
The Smell Test
Stitching Authentication
Source: Privé Porter, Sotheby's
Saddle stitch technique
✓ AUTHENTIC
Hermès uses the traditional "saddle stitch" - each stitch is made with two needles, creating identical stitches on both sides. Each stitch should be at a slight diagonal.
✗ COUNTERFEIT
Machine stitching looks vertical, often with visible loop on the back side
💡 Count stitches per inch - should be consistent throughout the bag
Thread type
✓ AUTHENTIC
Waxed linen thread in a color matching or complementing the leather. Thread should not look plasticky or synthetic.
✗ COUNTERFEIT
Synthetic thread, mismatched colors, inconsistent thickness
💡 Thread colors are specific to each leather color combination
Hardware Authentication
Lock (Cadenas)
- Should feel heavy and substantial
- Number stamped on bottom should match key
- "Hermès-Paris" engraving should be crisp and centered
- The keyhole should be perfectly symmetrical
Keys (Clochette)
- Keys should fit snugly in lock
- Key number matches lock number
- Keys stored in clochette (leather tab)
- Clochette leather should match bag
Zipper (if applicable)
- Should be Éclair or YKK brand
- Smooth operation with no catching
- Pulls should be leather-wrapped on Birkins
Get Professional Authentication
For Hermès bags, professional authentication is non-negotiable. These services have access to proprietary databases and authentication tools.
Sources & References
Disclaimer
This guide is for educational purposes only. The Fraud Codex is not affiliated with Hermès International. All information is compiled from publicly available sources and authentication experts. This guide should not replace professional authentication services. Hermès is a registered trademark of Hermès International.